Putting in work
by We didn't write this
Sending this route seems like getting your PHD in rock climbing. There are no shortcuts, you just have to put in the time.
The cruxes vary in style extremely and demand one to be honed in absoultley every style of climbing. The boulder problem demands crimp strength and explosive power to stick a v7 or 8 double handed dyno 1800 feet off the deck, something straight out of bishop. The enduro corner requires techy kneebar skills and enduro fitness on an overhang, remenicent of Rifle or the New. The monster and Scotty Burke are all about mastery of offwidth technique, par for the course on most Valley climbs. The freeblast requires tenious slab and face skills, straight out of Smith. Of course, the greatest challenge is attaining a level of fitness to do all of the above for 30 pitches.
The beauty of working on something like this, is that its just a route, a project. Projecting something like this is not much different than projecting a sport route. It takes more effort and maybe more dedication than hiking to the Aggro Gulley, but at the end of the day, its still just rock climbing. You put in time to gain muscle memory, remember a sequence, and piece by piece, everything comes together. To that effect, the past few weeks have been spent at the top of el cap, rapelling in and climbing the top cruxes.
The plan is to drop a haul bag into a bivy half way up the route next weekend,
and then go for a no holds barred, 2 day push with a light rack and liter water bottles swinging from our harnesses. I sure hope the valley gets a bit less greasy soon!
Have a good one!