New Projects

by We didn't write this

Sometimes projects get sent, sometimes they get started. Both are important since one feeds the other.

As of late, I have been trying to get dialed in the Valley.

Yosemite is a tough place to be a weekend warrior. For one, the climbing is unforgiving. One must execute flawless technique on these granite monoliths, technique that is hard to a acquire on quick weekend missions.

El cap Dan

Furthermore, logistics are tough in the valley. Long trad climbs require heinous approaches and alpine starts, often before sunrise. While coworkers enjoy Friday happy hours, I often find myself speeding to the valley and setting my alarm for 4am when I get there. After a while, this kind of starts feeling like a second (abeit unpaid) job.

This weekend, I was happy to take a break from my Yosemite occupation for a quick dip to Smith Roxxx. I brought a harness and flip flops, psyched to relax and clip some bolts.

Climber on “Full Overboard” 12a

These girls are AGRO!!!!!

I met up with Tara, who has been tearing through Smith Rock test pieces. Fresh off her send of Churning the Taco (13a), she made quick work of the powerful “The Quickening (12c).” Here is her firing the rig.

After redpointing the Last Waltz (12c/13b/c), I got a good perspective of Tara on “Darkness at Noon”(13a), one of the best climbs at Smith. Here is her on the rig.

My other goal for the trip was to work out a 14a called Badman in the Aggro Gulley. This rig is mega bouldery, revolving around two heinous, full span moves off slopey underclings. While I was able to do the moves and make some links, I certainly did not feel very close to the send. This is OK however, only motivation to train harder and climb smarter.

If it was easy, would it really be worth doing?

Ill leave you with this kewl photo of some trees.