by We didn't write this
After an almost 2 year hiatus from climbing 5.14 I am happy to say that this weekend, I managed to send Scarface, 14a, at Smith Rocks.
This monster 110 foot line is surely one of the best at Smith. This route is broken into 2 sections, the first being 5.14 pulls on steep pockets and the ladder, a long, runout journey up a 5.12 face. The route has 2 cruxes, one at the 2nd bolt and the other mid height, pulling onto the face. After punting twice at the second crux last weekend, I came back to Smith with hopes of sending.
On my first try of the weekend, I tied in feeling unsure and sluggish. However, after doing the first few moves, I realized this is the best I felt on the route yet; I knew my chances were good.
I fired the mono crux with ease, executed the taxing middle moves perectly, and found myself eyeing up the final redpoint crux. I took a deep breath and executed; a few seconds later I was perched on the face above the redpoint crux. While the 5.14 part of the climb was over, what lied above me was an endless sea of technical and taxing smith rock face.
What followed next was certainly one of the toughest fights of my life. Gaining any recovery in my arms was difficult due to a vicious pain and pump in my feet. Nevertheless, I made steady upward progress, shaking my arms and my feet at every chance. Perhaps 20 minutes later, I clipped the chains with a victory scream.
This ascent would be very significant…. if I was 9, 60, had one leg, or didn’t use a rope.
Enjoy the photos from Smith
Two more weeks in Portland.
Then, back to Zion for the Moonlight buttress redpoint, and San Fransisco!
Thanks for reading,