1 hour ENDURANCE hangboard workout

by We didn't write this

With summer time rolling around, its route season. And let me guess, you have a project but you don’t have endurance.

For us bigger guys out there (I weight a collective 2.3 Mikey Willams), endurance is an elusive beast. Like an upper tier sorority girl, it takes months and months to get and then, you look away for a second and its gone. Let me give you an example.

Lets just say I had a really good season last year. Like, I crushed the front range. My season ended with, as I am sure you heard, with a legendary ascent of a Clear Creek Canyon uber classic, Dark Waters Super Traverse Low. By the way, in case you were wondering, this line is MILES better than Fresh Waters Super Traverse (fucking pile…).

After a winter of bouldering, I got back on the sharp end. I figured a great place to start would be Sweet Inspirations, a new Uber Duber classic on the front range. As I unclipped the purple draw (VERY IMPORTANT!), a menacing pump ran through my body.

I whipped.

As an old aquantance once put it,

trad>aid>sportwanking>small stones>weighted fingertip pullups in a dark shed

Well, this is great unless all you have at your disposal is said dark shed. So here is a gift from me to you. All you need to send your chosspile project is a hangboard and an Ipod.

Basically, the idea is to spend 10 minutes on the hangboard without touching the ground. Most of the time you are just chillin on the jugs with your feet smeared on the wall in front of you or whatever else. However, about 7 times during the set, you campus the entire hangboard, using every hold on the board. So, it goes like this.

  1. Pick 2 five minute songs.
  2. Start by campusing the whole board. Then, get to the rest position and chill.
  3. Every time a chorus hits on the song, campus the board again and return to the rest position.

This is one set. If you do 4 sets with 5 minute rests between, its an hour long workout!

I’m going to go out on a limb and say you simply cannot build pro endurance unless you do this workout. Oh yeah, one more thing.   FUCK ARC!